Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas that you can take note of. Once I have already described the method of making a device for cold forging. Continuing the topic, I present to your attention a pipe bender for shaped pipes. The device is very useful in the household, although rarely used. For example, at the beginning of the summer cottage, bend the arches for the greenhouse or your wife asked you to pile an arch for climbing plants, well, or suddenly you decided to make a canopy, a canopy or update the roof in the gazebo, this is where the pipe bender will come in handy, and then you just have time to buy pipes … The design is easy to manufacture, and the author assembled it from scrap metal, which he found in his workshop. I think there are similar ones on this site, which means there will be more. If you are interested in the idea, you are welcome, read it, watch (video, as usual below) and take note.
* metal corner with shelf 60-70 mm,
* sheet metal from 6 to 12 mm thick,
* round metal tube and bearings (for rollers, everything is relative),
* round metal pipe of small diameter for the pinch roller axis,
* pinch roller axis (metal bar with a diameter of about 20 mm),
* screw for pressure roller (the author has finished),
* metal plate 40-50 mm wide (for stiffeners),
* paint for metal.
Tools:* welding machine,
* drilling machine,
* metal bit,
* step drill,
* magnetic square,
* marking tool (square, marker and tape measure).
Then the author puts marks on the corners as shown in the photo. Drills holes on them on a drilling machine. The central one increases with a stepped drill to the desired diameter (this is the hole for the axis of the pressure roller). Then he puts two parallel lines from it with a marker and cuts out the excess, alternately holding the corners in a vice
Next, the author assembled two support rollers of the required width (about 10-12 cm) from pipe and bearing scraps. The author uses them to bolt two corners as shown in the photo.
Next, the author prepared four plates. I turned the base (corners and rollers) upside down with horizontal shelves and alternately welded the plates using a magnetic square: two above the rollers and two with a small, but equal, indent from them. As a result, we got the basis (you can say the bed).
Next, the author takes the axis of the movable roller and string a tube on it for almost the entire length (only the threads with threads stick out). Then the author takes a short piece of pipe, but already of a larger diameter, and pushes it onto the tube, then takes another sleeve of an even larger diameter and pushes it onto the previous sleeve. All this is done from one side. Then it is boiled as shown in the photo.
On the other hand, the author installed the bearing and welded the bolt. Please note, the bearing with an additional cage (a ring made of a pipe with a suitable inner diameter).
Next, the author makes another such bearing as in the previous steps and presses it onto the axle from the thread side close to the bushing. Then the finished unit (this is almost a finished pressure roller) tries on to the base – installs it in the grooves.
Then the author cuts out two such plates from sheet metal.
Trying them on to the bearings (therefore, the thickness of the plates should be 2-3 mm less). Welds. He takes another plate with a hole in the center and welds it to the previously welded uprights.
At this point, we go back to the base. Here the author selects two plates, tries them on to the base shelves. Then he cuts grooves in these plates, in the middle, as shown in the photo. The groove must match the groove, in size, on the base shelves. Installs the roller and welds the plates.
Next, the author selects the plate, running on before I say, it will be on top of the previously welded plates. The author marks this plate along the diagonals and drills a hole in the center with a metal crown bit (for a ready-made screw). This plate is then welded to the upright plates. The author installs screws in it and scalds a nut on it.
Now let's move on to small strokes. You need to make a handle. The author bent its base from a steel strip. I screwed a nut onto the roller axis, tried on the base for it. Then I welded a bar to the base. I strung a tube on it, and so that it would not jump off, I welded a washer to the end. I welded the finished handle to the nut.
Now one more important point – stiffeners. The author takes four plates as in the photo and welds them to the corners of the base.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Pipe bender for profile pipes" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-08/1629312778_61.jpg"/> Then the author takes four stripes, cut to size with beveled ends. They are used by the author to connect the plates along the edges and the plate-stands.
This is the final stage. Here the author paints the finished pipe bender. He installs the screw, the handle, fixes the support rollers on the bolts and proceeds to the tests. As you can see, everything is spinning, everything is working. As a sample, the author bends a 40×20 mm profile pipe (if I am not mistaken).
That's all, the promised video below.